LONDON FASHION WEEK
DAY FIVE
Tuesday 21st September 2010
Cowboy boots painted with Coca-Cola bottles, portions of McDonald's French fries, horseshoes and cactuses, anyone? Whatever would you wear them with, I hear you ask. Why, maxi dresses embellished in leopard-spot sequins, or sequined Western shirts partnered with miniskirts in cowhide, patterned with black and white sequins, of course.
Yes, sirree, you can team anything with these eclectic pieces, as long as it's sequined – or tasselled, for that matter. In case you missed it (the Stetsons and feathered headpieces provided further clues), Ashish went all-out rodeo this season, and it was pure dress-up fantasy and a whole lot of thigh-slapping fun.
Admittedly, there was some respite from all that dazzle; namely in the shape of covetable faded jeans and denim hot pants with tan-suede tassels swinging from seams and back pockets, and a grey marl tracksuit decorated in a paisley print, which was repeated on bandanas jauntily tied around the neck. The only thing missing from this scene? A horse.
Question: How many ways can you wear a trench? Christopher Bailey has a knack for updating and reinventing this wardrobe classic, and this season was no exception. A favourite from the collection, which boasted black leather quilted sleeves (giving us a hint as to where the designer was headed next) launched the trench into biker-girl territory. Take note: we predict that Bailey's biker trench will be for S/S 11 what his aviator jacket was to A/W 10 – a hit.
In addition to cool, cropped versions in silver leather (with skinny Motocross trousers to match), wet-look styles and others with menacing gold shiny spikes studded across shoulders and sleeves, was the perfect biker jacket in the softest, lived-in leather. It was nothing short of iconic, and just the ticket to throw over one of Bailey's leopard-print party dresses with short, tiered-silk skirts. Just one thing: Hell's Angels don't do precarious heels. Models teetered the catwalk in towering platforms – a few rebels gave up the balancing act and looked all the better for it.
This year, Fashion East celebrates its tenth anniversary, and founder Lulu Kennedy invited Heikki Salonen and newcomers Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha to the party. Inspired by skateboarding style and pioneer America, Salonen opened the show with a series of frayed cheesecloth shirts, ragged-skirted dresses, destroyed ponchos and those now-signature sawn-off tailored jackets, all teamed with socks and Birkenstocks.
Next up was Felicity Brown, and from her beautiful raw-edged ruffled cocktail dresses its clear that Brown learned more than a thing or two from her tenure at Lanvin. From teal to raspberry sorbet, French blue to red and soft pink, every look was nothing short of delicious.
And finally to Simone Rocha, John Rocha's daughter, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in February this year. The work of Francis Bacon and the cemetery in Hong Kong where her grandfather is buried stirred her imagination, translating into deconstructed white shirting with a play on sheer. Good news for those coveting her headpieces – they'll be available in Topshop.
Todd Lynn has long been the go-to designer for anyone favouring a rock'n'roll aesthetic. And yesterday, to a soundtrack of Nineties indie rock, we saw razor-sharp cigarette pants, washed leather jackets with sharp shoulders and severe shift dresses with angular necklines that are all very much part of his vernacular. This season, he played to all of his strengths. Lynn
likes black – and there was some here – but this is Spring/Summer, after all, so what does a designer like Lynn do when the sun starts shining? He looks to
a colour palette of nudes, moss, sea, silvery steely greys and lightest gold, and those fierce silhouettes are actually all the better for it. Die-hard Lynn fans, fear not. There was armour to these softer – dare I say it, pretty – colours. Add-on capelet, pocket and shoulder panels of buttermilk or moss pythonskin introduced surface interest. So, too, did the dramatic, armadillo-esque, high-shine chrome breastplates, designed in collaboration with Shaun Leane, that adorned several looks.
DAY 5 FAVORITES!!!!!
Designer name: Marios Schwab
Origin: “Greco-Austrian and currently live in London.”
Career highlights: “Winning the Best New Designer award in 2006 and the Swiss Textiles Award in 2007.”
Design background: Marios completed his BA at Esmod Berlin then went on to the MA course at Central Saint Martins. He worked for the menswear designer Kim Jones, on Jones' womenswear label, before starting his own business.
What are your inspirations for spring/summer 2010: “English roses and vanitas.”
What are your design signatures? “The little black dress.”
How would you describe the Marios Schwab woman? “A young, cosmopolitan woman who is open minded, enigmatic and adventurous.”
What sums up quintessential London for you? “The British Museum.”
Where in London do you find most inspiring? “Kew Gardens.”
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TODD LYNN
Designer name: Todd Lynn
Origin: Canada
Career highlight: “Always the forthcoming show at London Fashion Week.”
Design background: Todd graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA and has previously worked with Roland Mouret.
What are your design signatures? “Razor-sharp, androgynous tailoring.”
How would you describe the Todd Lynn woman? “Fearless with a heart full of rock’n’roll.”
Name three things that are inspiring you for spring/summer 2011:“Science and the creating of new life forms in the laboratory, skin and the future.”
What encapsulates fashionable London for you? “The great thing about London is that it lives and breathes fashion. The street is still the best way to get a snapshot of London style.”
What do you hope the new decade will mean for your brand? “New product lines and collaborations. New directions in fashion and a new attitude in the fashion consumer. I think that this decade will be one of the most exciting for fashion. New people, new ideas, new attitude.”
How does London influence your designs? “I love the art galleries in London. I could spend all day wandering from one to the next. The Haunch of Venison is an absolute favourite and always inspiring.”
Origin: Canada
Career highlight: “Always the forthcoming show at London Fashion Week.”
Design background: Todd graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA and has previously worked with Roland Mouret.
What are your design signatures? “Razor-sharp, androgynous tailoring.”
How would you describe the Todd Lynn woman? “Fearless with a heart full of rock’n’roll.”
Name three things that are inspiring you for spring/summer 2011:“Science and the creating of new life forms in the laboratory, skin and the future.”
What encapsulates fashionable London for you? “The great thing about London is that it lives and breathes fashion. The street is still the best way to get a snapshot of London style.”
What do you hope the new decade will mean for your brand? “New product lines and collaborations. New directions in fashion and a new attitude in the fashion consumer. I think that this decade will be one of the most exciting for fashion. New people, new ideas, new attitude.”
How does London influence your designs? “I love the art galleries in London. I could spend all day wandering from one to the next. The Haunch of Venison is an absolute favourite and always inspiring.”
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CHRISTOPHER BAILEY
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER
In his role as Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, Christopher Bailey is responsible for the design of all Burberry collections and products, as well as all advertising, corporate art direction, architectural design, multi-media content and overall brand image for Burberry.
Christopher also recently oversaw the design and development of the new 160,000 square foot Burberry Global Headquarters at Horseferry House in London, the newly opened 68,000 square foot Burberry Americas Headquarters at 444 Madison in New York and the new Burberry Headquarters in Ginza, Tokyo in Japan.
In 2008 Christopher Bailey set up the Burberry Foundation with Burberry Chief Executive Angela Ahrendts. The Burberry Foundation is committed to dedicating global resources to help young people realise their dreams and achieve their goals and potential through their power and creativity. The Burberry Foundation invests in select charities focused on supporting young people in the key cities in regions where the majority of Burberry employees live and work, and where they are able to participate in volunteer roles with Burberry charity partners on the ground.
Christopher Bailey was appointed Chief Creative Officer of Burberry in November 2009, a newly created position in recognition of his outstanding contribution to the brand since his appointment at Burberry as Creative Director in May 2001.
Prior to his appointment at Burberry, Christopher was the Senior Designer of Womenswear at Gucci in Milan from 1996 to 2001. From 1994 to 1996 he was the Womenswear Designer at Donna Karan.
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Designer name: Ashish GuptaWhat are your design signatures? “Sequins, glamour, sportswear and more sequins.”
Name three things that are inspiring you for spring/summer 2010: “Summer vacations, holiday romance and faraway places.”
How would you describe the Ashish woman? “Fun-loving and sexy with a sense of humour. She likes to make an entrance.”
What venues sum up quintessential London for you? “The Everyman Cinema in Hampstead for rainy afternoons; Primrose Bakery for the best chocolate cupcakes; Claire de Rouen books on Charing Cross Road for books on fashion and photography.”
Where in London do you find most inspiring? “The library at Central Saint Martins.”
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Designer name: Daniella Issa HelayelOrigin: Brazil
Career highlights: “Dressing Madonna and Scarlett Johansson. And I’m looking forward to anything that comes up in the future.”
Who is your ideal customer? “The Queen of England. She is not just a style icon, but an icon in every sense of the word.”
What is inspiring you for spring/summer 2011: “Colonial India. The SS10 collection’s draping is inspired by beautiful Indian women wearing saris; they are so graceful and the colour palettes are incredible. My Indian themed birthday party was also an inspiration - everyone looked so amazing and made such an effort.”
What's new for you this season? “Denim dresses - very feminine with a twist. We have also designed beautiful corseted jersey dresses, very simple, elegant and chic. I’m so excited about this collection, it’s my absolute favourite!”
Where do you go in London to seek ideas for a forthcoming collection? “I find inspiration everywhere I go. Whether it be walking down the street in London, gathering research in the Chelsea library, cycling or walking my dogs in the park. I keep my Smythson notebook to hand at all times and jot ideas down as soon as they come into my head. I love visiting Portobello Market on a Friday; I get there around 8.30am when it’s really quiet. Angel’s Warehouse is a treasure trove of interesting finds. I also find lots of inspiration in auction houses and the V&A Museum in South Kensington.”
As fashion fuses ever closer with art, film and music, how has London's vibrant cultural scene influenced your SS11 collection? “I love people watching! It’s one of my favourite past times! In galleries and museums you see amazing art and so many inspiring people. London is just heaven for all of the senses, you have so much to see and hear that you feel inundated with the most amazing audio and visual culture that London has to offer.”
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