SPRING/SUMMER 2011
HAIDER ACKERMANN
Mood/style:the spectacular collection that Haider Ackermann presented in Paris has definitively consecrated the designer as one of the most creative talents on the international scene. In a runway show of rare suggestive force, Haider affirmed his vision of a queenly woman, languid and haughty in her regal, sensual and distant attitude. Re-proposing the classics of his personal language (the deconstructed black leather that is both edgy and powerful, the bold, severe cuts, the prediliction for long, enveloping, sinuous styles), he added a touch of Japanese inspiration in the elaborate, stiff obi belts that evoke a sophisticated kind of bondage. He's experimented with a new use of color, choosing full, deep shades that contrast with black and add preciousness and energy to a style's becoming increasingly confident and relevant
Lengths:
everything is floor-length, the designer's signature length
Colours:
black, with flashes of primary colour: cobalt blue, crimson and ruby red, emerald green, sunflower yellow, magenta, purple, violet
Shapes:
japanese insiprations in the ribbon obi belt that decorated the back or waistline, drawing attention to these areas. Volumes are mainly in the upper areas: black leather, sleeveless biker jackets worn oversized, often worn off the shoulders and cinched at the waist with elaborate sashes; skirts are slim and siren-shaped in sensual materials, often with a train or bold slits that expose the legs; some skirts have pleats that open to reveal body-huggging trousers
Fabrics:
leather, silk crêpe, Indian brocades embroidered with little mirrors and gold thread, satin, silk jersey, duchess satin
Accessories:
high-heeled sandals with ankle straps and front buckle closures
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