The working woman—who she is and what she wears—is of central concern to designers these days. We see her influence in the recent interest in tailored suiting, in silk blouses, simpler bags and lower shoes. But it takes a designer of great sensitivity and subtlety to bring that woman and her needs forward stylistically. Saturday at Bottega Veneta Tomas Maier showed just how good he is at making reality chic extraordinarily cool. This came in the form of deceptively easy silk jersey dresses worn with wedge boots and long strap bags, trousers suits cut with unironic precision, and the cunning use of iridescence (based on the shimmer of beetles) that winked at a dark and flashy (yet grown-up) glamour. Grown-up women will, it appears, be wearing the pants this fall: terrific sexy pants. At Gucci they were cut lean and long with a square hip and a narrow knee to stretch the line of the leg. Pair them with a big topper and from thighs onward you'll look really, really lithe. At Pucci they were cut high-waisted and curvy, with a pronounced wicked zip down the back. Peter Dundas's Pucci pants give one a sort of apple-butt, which looks ridiculously hot with a narrow snakeskin jacket or something cropped and fluffy. And pants are the hot ticket in Milan right now, as editors raid the Celine store on via Montenapoleone trying to nab a pair of Phoebe Philo's linen full legged numbers piped in black. They are basically sold out everywhere, along with her no button camel crombie. These are the clothes working women in the style biz want right now.
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