LONDON FASHION WEEK
DAY TWO
Saturday 18th September 2010
EMILIO DE LA MORENA
When I heard that Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Kate Moss and Leighton Meester loved Emilio de la "Morena's high-fashion cocktail dresses, I thought: "Hmmm." So I some research on the adorable Spaniard and witnessed for myself how his intense research into shape, colour and texture can help create an amazing red-carpet dress, and was won over. No prizes, then, for guessing his S/S 11 collection was wall-to-wall sexy evening dresses for the global It-girl set, with a few cropped, hole-punched leather jackets thrown in. His dresses came out tight in leather with peplum frills; short with pouffy taffeta skirts and floating trails of wispy silk; or with tucks and fins and frills and bibs. His palette, inspired by artist Lucio Fontana, included pistachio, lemon, frosted pink icing, mustard and black; very on-trend. My favourite was a darling short baby-pink tulle mini-dress part
Barbie, part bridesmaid that would look cool on Julia, but I don't hold out as much hope for the everyday folk among us.
When I heard that Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Kate Moss and Leighton Meester loved Emilio de la "Morena's high-fashion cocktail dresses, I thought: "Hmmm." So I some research on the adorable Spaniard and witnessed for myself how his intense research into shape, colour and texture can help create an amazing red-carpet dress, and was won over. No prizes, then, for guessing his S/S 11 collection was wall-to-wall sexy evening dresses for the global It-girl set, with a few cropped, hole-punched leather jackets thrown in. His dresses came out tight in leather with peplum frills; short with pouffy taffeta skirts and floating trails of wispy silk; or with tucks and fins and frills and bibs. His palette, inspired by artist Lucio Fontana, included pistachio, lemon, frosted pink icing, mustard and black; very on-trend. My favourite was a darling short baby-pink tulle mini-dress part
Barbie, part bridesmaid that would look cool on Julia, but I don't hold out as much hope for the everyday folk among us.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Good for Henry Holland. In the past year, he has seen his business move from a shoe-cupboard of a studio to one ten times the size, and he recently signed a two-year global deal with Pretty Polly. There's a confidence boost evident in this, his most strong and assured collection a pure facsimile of Seventies fashion. A collection this Seventies could only have been created by someone born in the Eighties Henry is a 1983 kid. We saw pale denim bellbottom flares adorned with patchwork leather stars, a flecky jumper with aqua-blue banana-leaf-print flares, and Charlotte Olympia platforms. Copious amounts of gold chain mail and fitted shift dresses in purple or apple-green leaf-print provided the disco moment. "
Good for Henry Holland. In the past year, he has seen his business move from a shoe-cupboard of a studio to one ten times the size, and he recently signed a two-year global deal with Pretty Polly. There's a confidence boost evident in this, his most strong and assured collection a pure facsimile of Seventies fashion. A collection this Seventies could only have been created by someone born in the Eighties Henry is a 1983 kid. We saw pale denim bellbottom flares adorned with patchwork leather stars, a flecky jumper with aqua-blue banana-leaf-print flares, and Charlotte Olympia platforms. Copious amounts of gold chain mail and fitted shift dresses in purple or apple-green leaf-print provided the disco moment. "
It started with Seventies, Studio 54 and Xanadu," said Holland, "and got more Joan Collins. This collection is bright, fun and young with it, but not as young as before," he added. This is a good thing. Henry Holland is growing up, and his super-fans (nearly 100,000 Twitter followers and counting) are growing up, too.
TWENTY 8 TWELVE
The media hoopla surrounding Savannah and Sienna Miller's Twenty8Twelve collection for S/S 11 will centre on the presence of Jude Law on the front row. Not here. The A-list thing is a curveball there's nothing posey or pretentious in this collection. Savannah and Sienna make their clothes unashamedly easy, fun, affordable, fashionable and wearable, which is fabulous because there¹s nothing girls like more. Riffing on a Fifties Americana theme, there was a Tammy Wynette-inspired denim mini prom dress with frilled underskirts, a bibbed denim shirt-dress and tiny, flirty denim shorts. Then came the hot-summer-night-in-Rio slink: printed ruched jersey tubes in mini, midi and maxi shapes that accentuate every curve. It was all accessorised with flat slip-on sandals with a glittery bow. The collection jumped all over the place, but worked. My favourite pieces were the caped white shirt, the silk floral playsuit, and the denim dress with a bibbed top and tight skirt. Backstage, the Millers revealed, "Our A/W is the best-selling collection on Selfridges' third floor." The customer is always
The media hoopla surrounding Savannah and Sienna Miller's Twenty8Twelve collection for S/S 11 will centre on the presence of Jude Law on the front row. Not here. The A-list thing is a curveball there's nothing posey or pretentious in this collection. Savannah and Sienna make their clothes unashamedly easy, fun, affordable, fashionable and wearable, which is fabulous because there¹s nothing girls like more. Riffing on a Fifties Americana theme, there was a Tammy Wynette-inspired denim mini prom dress with frilled underskirts, a bibbed denim shirt-dress and tiny, flirty denim shorts. Then came the hot-summer-night-in-Rio slink: printed ruched jersey tubes in mini, midi and maxi shapes that accentuate every curve. It was all accessorised with flat slip-on sandals with a glittery bow. The collection jumped all over the place, but worked. My favourite pieces were the caped white shirt, the silk floral playsuit, and the denim dress with a bibbed top and tight skirt. Backstage, the Millers revealed, "Our A/W is the best-selling collection on Selfridges' third floor." The customer is always
right.
UNIQUE
If anyone was in doubt that the Seventies are the mega-trend in the making for S/S 11, then the Topshop Unique show was the decider. Following Marc Jacobs' homage to Seventies icons Marisa Berenson, Anjelica Huston and Marie Helvin in New York, Topshop saluted the decade's more psychedelic side. "It was a bit Stevie Nicks like, of course," shrugged Unique stylist Katie Grand. She was referring to both the show music and the fringed capes, bell-sleeved chiffon blousons, sliced billowing kaftans, jumpsuits and skinny bellbottoms with hippie-trippy prints of Pegasus (solarised orange print), fairies (black and white, hand-drawn) and flowers (blurred red/orange watercolours). "It was also a bit Joan Jett, and Jerry Hall in Roxy Music days." With hair and make-up straight from a Helmut Newton shoot, mirrored aviators, fringed bags and Plexiglas platforms, this show felt like the adrenalin shot London Fashion Week needed. Here's an unusual thing: I expect to see women of 30-plus wearing this and the crystal-studded, tight m
If anyone was in doubt that the Seventies are the mega-trend in the making for S/S 11, then the Topshop Unique show was the decider. Following Marc Jacobs' homage to Seventies icons Marisa Berenson, Anjelica Huston and Marie Helvin in New York, Topshop saluted the decade's more psychedelic side. "It was a bit Stevie Nicks like, of course," shrugged Unique stylist Katie Grand. She was referring to both the show music and the fringed capes, bell-sleeved chiffon blousons, sliced billowing kaftans, jumpsuits and skinny bellbottoms with hippie-trippy prints of Pegasus (solarised orange print), fairies (black and white, hand-drawn) and flowers (blurred red/orange watercolours). "It was also a bit Joan Jett, and Jerry Hall in Roxy Music days." With hair and make-up straight from a Helmut Newton shoot, mirrored aviators, fringed bags and Plexiglas platforms, this show felt like the adrenalin shot London Fashion Week needed. Here's an unusual thing: I expect to see women of 30-plus wearing this and the crystal-studded, tight m
DAY TWO FAVORITES!!!!!!
Designer name: Emilio de la Morena
Origin: Spain
Career highlight: “Having one of my dresses bought and displayed in a permanent exhibition at the Museu Textil e Indumentaria de Barcelona.”
Design background: Emilio studied at Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion. He has worked for Rafael Lopez and Jonathan Saunders.
Name three things that are inspiring you for autumn/winter 2009:“The work of Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida; pop art; colour.”What are your design signatures? “Sculptural chic.”
How would you describe the Emilio de la Morena woman? “She is strong and modern. She knows her own mind and is not afraid to stand out; nor is she scared of expressing herself in a vibrant and bold way.”
What is your most recent London discovery? “Bermondsey Street. It is such a cool area full of great places to hang out.”
SS 11-
Designer name: Karen Bonser Origin: Mansfield, Nottingham.
Career highlight: “I love seeing someone with a Topshop carrier bag - I'm always desperate to know what's inside! Overall, being the first high street brand to show at London Fashion Week has been a real career highlight.”
Design Background: Karen studied at the University of Central England. She has worked previously for Helen Storey at Warehouse.
What is your signature style? “Always fun and playful, often including a playsuit/all-in-one.”
How would you describe the Unique woman? “Someone who is an individual, who isn't afraid to stand out from the crowd and who loves fashion.”
Where in London do you find most inspiring? “Shoreditch.”
What venue sums up quintessential London for you? “I love Beyond Retro in Spitalfields, and I absolutely love Liberty. But nothing reminds me of London as much as the tube!”
SS 11-
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Origin: Ramsbottom
Career highlight: “My first show on schedule at London Fashion Week.”
Design background: Henry studied at the London College of Printing. He was a stylist before setting up his label.
Design signatures: “Bold, colourful, irreverent.”
How would you describe the House of Holland woman? “I design with a London girl’s aesthetic in mind and love to see girls wearing my designs in their own unique way.”
Name three things that are inspiring you for spring/summer 2011“1970s glamour, disco and New York nightlife.”
What’s new for you this season? “We are working with Swarovski crystal on some amazing, show-stopping pieces.”
Where do you go in London to seek ideas for a forthcoming collection? “Living in London inspiration is everywhere: the people, the places, the atmosphere and the attitude.”
As fashion fuses ever closer with art, film and music, how has London’s vibrant cultural scene influenced your SS11 collection? “I am always influenced by London’s incredible cultural scene - I love the diversity that you can get only in the capital of Great Britain.”
SS 11-
0 Response to "LONDON FASHION WEEK SS 2011 DAY 2"