NYC FASHION WEEK
SPRING/SUMMER 2011
Best of DAY 4
DEREK LAM
Inspired by Peter Schjeldahl's "Way Out West" article in The New Yorker this past January, Derek Lam was moved by the writer's descriptive language. "It was less about the artist and the article and more about his poetic language. This collection is what I've always done, my touchstones, but in a way clarifying it," Lam explained post-show. "I wanted to explore more with new fabrics and finishes to make the clothing look and feel modern." Immaculate lines and crisp pieces like a bright indigo linen twill blazer and oatmeal leather and suede shorts felt feminine and fresh from first look to last. Lam smiled, "I wanted to convey the feeling that it is an optimistic spring."
LELA ROSE
Finding beauty in Lima Peru, Lela Rose celebrated the city’s vibrant hand-loomed textiles and architecture. “The whole collection was about old-world culture meeting the new-world society,” noted Rose backstage. A sea of fabrics, textures and colors including hammered gauze, printed silk and loomed metallic tweeds were garnished with sparkles and baubles. While Rose’s offerings did feel familiarly demure, she strayed from her usual lunching with the ladies aesthetic a bit with her bustier-esque dresses. “There were definitely some sexier gowns for us this time,” she said, and she went on to explain her reasoning. “I really wanted to do fuller, voluminous gowns and the only way to do it is with tighter tops. Or else you risk looking like the Michelin Man!”
REBECCA TAYLOR
True to form, Rebecca Taylor delivered a series of pretty, pretty pinks, blushes, purples and blues in teeny florals, swiss dots and snakeskin prints—for extra oomph and edge, of course. The dusty rose palette grounded the collection, keeping it from veering too far into the girly, frothy realm. Sweet touches like scalloped edging served as a reminder that Taylor knows how to lure in the youthful, feminine girl who is desperately searching to pepper her closet with just the right amount of cool.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
After almost 10 years of walking the runway with Nathan Jenden by her side, Diane von Furstenberg had a new man on her arm for Spring: Yvan Mispelaere, who replaced Jenden in February after he left to focus on his eponymous line. Calling the Spring collection a transformation may be reading a bit too much into the presence of a new creative director (after all, Diane is still Diane), but it did seem a distinct return to a more classic DvF—right down to the wrap dresses that made her famous. Bright, bold colors came in prints that might have come straight from the designer's vast archives: graphic sqaures, cartoony toiles, bold florals and waves, which were constructed into easy jersey dresses and polished shorts suits. Solids had their place—several pantsuits in bright sherbet shades were tailored and trim, and will appeal to the office-dwelling DvF fan more than the vaguely bohemian offerings of seasons past. Her collection may have been titled goddess (and it did include the requisite white Grecian-esque dress), but it seems that the modern, everyday goddesses will love these clothes more than those mythical beings.
CUSTO BARCELONA
I do admit, many of the pieces from their latest collection look slightly busy. But if you take a moment to look at some of the pieces in a bit more detail, you might see that there’s something about them. Something special. At least that’s what happened to me. Now I just see brilliant design-work, that brings together colours in a very clever way. The colours are strong but not overpowering, and the patterns are wild but not out of control. I think the final result looks polished, finished and very carefully planned out. And for these particular reasons I’ve come to like many of Custo Barcelona’s pieces.
VASSILIOS KOSTETSOS
He quickly established his reputation and proved his excellence as one of the major fashion designers in Greece, at a very young age. He organizes two big fashion shows every year with haute couture creations, and
has enjoyed working with some of the world’s major international super models such as Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbel, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, Tatiana Patitz, Nadjia Auermann, Michele Hicks , Marcus Schenkenberg, Eva Herzigova , Karen Mulder, Care Otis, Tasha de Vasconcelos, Ester Canadas, Eugenia Volodina, Carmen Kass.
Inspired by Peter Schjeldahl's "Way Out West" article in The New Yorker this past January, Derek Lam was moved by the writer's descriptive language. "It was less about the artist and the article and more about his poetic language. This collection is what I've always done, my touchstones, but in a way clarifying it," Lam explained post-show. "I wanted to explore more with new fabrics and finishes to make the clothing look and feel modern." Immaculate lines and crisp pieces like a bright indigo linen twill blazer and oatmeal leather and suede shorts felt feminine and fresh from first look to last. Lam smiled, "I wanted to convey the feeling that it is an optimistic spring."
LELA ROSE
Finding beauty in Lima Peru, Lela Rose celebrated the city’s vibrant hand-loomed textiles and architecture. “The whole collection was about old-world culture meeting the new-world society,” noted Rose backstage. A sea of fabrics, textures and colors including hammered gauze, printed silk and loomed metallic tweeds were garnished with sparkles and baubles. While Rose’s offerings did feel familiarly demure, she strayed from her usual lunching with the ladies aesthetic a bit with her bustier-esque dresses. “There were definitely some sexier gowns for us this time,” she said, and she went on to explain her reasoning. “I really wanted to do fuller, voluminous gowns and the only way to do it is with tighter tops. Or else you risk looking like the Michelin Man!”
REBECCA TAYLOR
True to form, Rebecca Taylor delivered a series of pretty, pretty pinks, blushes, purples and blues in teeny florals, swiss dots and snakeskin prints—for extra oomph and edge, of course. The dusty rose palette grounded the collection, keeping it from veering too far into the girly, frothy realm. Sweet touches like scalloped edging served as a reminder that Taylor knows how to lure in the youthful, feminine girl who is desperately searching to pepper her closet with just the right amount of cool.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
After almost 10 years of walking the runway with Nathan Jenden by her side, Diane von Furstenberg had a new man on her arm for Spring: Yvan Mispelaere, who replaced Jenden in February after he left to focus on his eponymous line. Calling the Spring collection a transformation may be reading a bit too much into the presence of a new creative director (after all, Diane is still Diane), but it did seem a distinct return to a more classic DvF—right down to the wrap dresses that made her famous. Bright, bold colors came in prints that might have come straight from the designer's vast archives: graphic sqaures, cartoony toiles, bold florals and waves, which were constructed into easy jersey dresses and polished shorts suits. Solids had their place—several pantsuits in bright sherbet shades were tailored and trim, and will appeal to the office-dwelling DvF fan more than the vaguely bohemian offerings of seasons past. Her collection may have been titled goddess (and it did include the requisite white Grecian-esque dress), but it seems that the modern, everyday goddesses will love these clothes more than those mythical beings.
CUSTO BARCELONA
I do admit, many of the pieces from their latest collection look slightly busy. But if you take a moment to look at some of the pieces in a bit more detail, you might see that there’s something about them. Something special. At least that’s what happened to me. Now I just see brilliant design-work, that brings together colours in a very clever way. The colours are strong but not overpowering, and the patterns are wild but not out of control. I think the final result looks polished, finished and very carefully planned out. And for these particular reasons I’ve come to like many of Custo Barcelona’s pieces.
VASSILIOS KOSTETSOS
He quickly established his reputation and proved his excellence as one of the major fashion designers in Greece, at a very young age. He organizes two big fashion shows every year with haute couture creations, and
has enjoyed working with some of the world’s major international super models such as Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbel, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, Tatiana Patitz, Nadjia Auermann, Michele Hicks , Marcus Schenkenberg, Eva Herzigova , Karen Mulder, Care Otis, Tasha de Vasconcelos, Ester Canadas, Eugenia Volodina, Carmen Kass.
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