Resort 2011: Burberry's Christopher Bailey on Running a 21st Century Brand

Today, Christopher Bailey is airborne from Boston, headed for Milan to work on his men’s show—hotfooting it from the launch of his pre-spring collection and addressing a worldwide Burberry conference in New York last week. Such is the speedy summer schedule of the boyish-looking 39-year-old chief creative director of Burberry, under whose leadership the company is streaking ahead in the Internet communication-and-selling stakes. “I’ve always been a bit of a gadget nerd, so I love what technology can do,” says the man who scored a fashion click-to-buy coup when he put Burberry Prorsum’s hit aviator outerwear online immediately after the show was globally live-streamed in 3-D from London. Those insanely desirable shearlings were in the hands of the first customers who placed their orders “oh, six weeks ago . . . or longer,” Bailey reports. “The reaction was just incredible. The way people were caught up in the emotion of the show and then could act on it.” Backed by military-organized pre–bulk buying of Australian sheepskins, the operation was planned down to the last refinement. Customers were told the preorder window would slam shut after five days, thus instigating a breakneck shopping race. Very clever, very forward thinking indeed. “Well, this is such a young-old company,” he says. “I mean, Burberry was founded in 1856, but the whole gang is really young, so it’s natural for us that technology is integrated into literally every single thing we do now. Actually, we just hired someone from Xbox.” All eyes, then, on what they’re cooking up next. Latest on the fashion front: resort. “I really wanted to continue the feel of the aviator collection for fall, so we looked at thirties and forties colonial uniforms in the archive and mixed them with exotic skins, lizard and python.” But what is this weird delivery that arrives in shops before Christmas, when it’s nastily subzero in many places (pre-spring? Isn’t that winter?), yet hot in others where global Burberry-wearers might be dwelling or holidaying? The geographically pragmatic Bailey has climate awareness organized: There are great leopard-printed rabbit-fur coats and thigh-high leather boots at one end, and lace trenches and camisole dresses at the other. All the ruching and draping, and the slim khaki officer tailoring, in the meanwhile, plays out Burberry’s familiar signatures of the last few seasons.

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