REVIEW -

Mood/Style:


the collection of Marco De Vincenzo, 32 years old, is the expression of the route of stylistic and conceptual evolution that the young designer, in 2009 winner of the Who's on Next contest, has already undertaken for three seasons. If the spring-summer was the fruit of a mix of suggestions coming from daily life, the pieces for autumn-winter are, instead, the fruit of profound research. On one hand, there is the will to recuperate the silhouette that is dear to Elsa Schiaparelli, with suits with little pockets that made the designer the antagonist of Coco Chanel; on the other, that of experimentation: strict focus on particular materials such as fur. To then explore volumes and esthetic possibilities in a wide variety of pieces. De Vincenzo imagines creating surreal wild animals in playing upon volumes and different materials that are sewn together into one piece



Lengths:

mini and midi for little dresses and knee-length skirts



Fabrics:

woolen cloth, silk, sheepskin, mink, ermine and kidassia goat



Colours:

white, black, plaster, dust, putty. Neon green and yellow for chemises and tops. Trompe l'oeil prints in black&white



Shapes:

strict lines for severe suits embellished with eye-shaped buttons in polished silver. Pleats on straight skirts give three-dimensionality to the pieces; frontal slits break up visual continuity. Snugger volumes alternate with those that are oversized: with straight dresses opposing trapezoidal fur capelets; the fitted-waist coat is the most important



Accessories:

leather gloves, stiletto pumps with little ankle-straps, very tall musketeer boots